My journey to Belize is a millennial tale: First comes flight deal email, then comes frantic Gchat conversation, then comes conch fritters and rum punch. While freezing away billable hours at a writing gig, I was easy pickings for pre-spring travel marketing. Add that my friends had recently bailed on an IMMACULATELY PLANNED island escapade, and you’ve got a perfectly executed wanderlust recipe.
Impulse travel is nothing new, but it is something I’m trying to practice more often. As Liz (my Belize buddy and podcast co-host) mentioned in that fateful Gchat convo, we’re marching closer to 30. In retrospect I’m not totally sure of what that’s supposed to mean, but it was good enough at the time.
A quick flight to Houston (and a convenient turn up at the airport Pasppasitto’s) led to an easy flight to Belize City. If you’re even considering heading to Belize you need to know that Belize City — the main hub of the mainland — grinds to a screeching halt at 5:30 pm. That includes the last of local fights and ferries to the surrounding cayes (or islands). Talk your way into taxis accordingly.
Swinging on the beach.
We decided to spend the majority of our time on Ambergris Caye a little outside of San Pedro. Accommodations? Bomb. The sweetest bartenders, most helpful staff and welcoming neighbors made those little moments between planned events especially amazing.
My writing nook on the quiet beach — save for lapping waves — is sorely missed. Tipping back an ice cold Belikin between bites of fresh snapper, the best ceviche I’ve ever had and honey-drizzled fry jacks was everyday behavior.
A quick ferry ride delivered me to Caye Caulker, a small island with a ton of personality. I spent the day amidst vibrant homes, zipping golf carts (no cars in sight) and an even more beautiful beach than the one I called home.
Me and my friend of 10+ years, Liz! (Taken by a fellow Texas Ex met on the beach.)
Aside from scenery, locals only cocktails (if it comes in a glass, you just got played) and dutty-wine-inducing music, the best part of Caye Caulker was the people. With a scan over The Split’s dock, I saw people who’d just met revel in the joys of a Belizean Saturday, together.
The joy of tiny planes.
While the cayes are necessary for beach selfies and relaxation, the mainland holds the key to Belize’s past: the Mayan ruins. A quick flight and a long drive took me to the Belizean/Guatemalan border to experience the majesty that is Xunantunich. The great guides at Rick N Vers were super gracious, guiding us throughout the mainland.
Pre-climb hops.
The view from Xunantunich's top into Guatemala.
To my surprise, I climbed to the top. As expected, I freaked out the entire way down. Either way, I could totally benefit from a 3000 year-old structure being added to my training regimen. I got an added adrenaline hit by zip lining through the rain forest, and slowed things down by tubing through a cave’s serene waters.
Floating the river within the mountain.
While in Belize I experienced a feeling that I’ve never felt anywhere else: I felt native. I felt like I looked like I belonged there. Amidst the nonstop injustice carried out against people of color in the US, going to a country where the overwhelming majority are brown-skinned is a beautiful feeling. The only time traces of hyper-awareness or double consciousness appeared was during moments at our lodging arrangements. The brown-skinned population on-site without uniform began and ended with us. However this showed me that the comfort level was not one-sided. I genuinely feel that the staff — while amazingly hospitable to everyone — gave us a little more warmth in their good mornings, a bit more sparkle in their smiles and a splash more rum in our punch.